« Reply #50 on: June 03, 2014, 10:08:12 AM »
Away from the Crowds in Cordoba, Spain
When sitting on the Costa Brava in Malaga, it may be hard to imagine that such a place as Cordoba exists. Let alone that it is under a hundred miles away. Yet the peaceful, traditional and historically important centre of Cordoba, a jewel of Andalusia, is under two hours drive away. Leave the sun loungers and high rises, and head inland for a totally different kind of holiday.
Cordoba, Córdoba or sometimes Cordova when named by the English, is a city steeped in incredible history. Few places on earth can make the claims that Cordoba certainly can. It has been the capital, an intellectual center, the most populous city on earth. It's reputed to be the hottest city in Europe. An UNESCO World Heritage Site - and the largest area of urban buildings to be declared thus - it retains so much living evidence of a rich past. It's a world leader, and no mistake.
People come to Córdoba to immerse themselves in the true Andalusia, to be wowed by the architecture, to lose the crowds, to soak in the culture and learn about the history of this truly fascinating place. An article can only give a brief insight into the history of such a legendary town, so to truly appreciate it and learn more, you simply have to go there.
With its position on a wide meander of the Guadalquivir, in a protected valley in front of the Sierra Morena mountains, it's no surprise that there's evidence of the very earliest humans being here. Artefacts show a neolithic presence to over 32,000 years before Christ, when men were neanderthal. There seems to have been almost continuous occupation since then. The Romans came in 206 BCE and their legacy remains today.
The Roman bridge still spans the river, adorning many a postcard and snapshot. It dates from 100 years BC, and was accompanied by a contemporary forum and ampitheatre here too. Roman sites of major interest also include the theatre, temple, Maximilian's Palace, the Mausoleum, Forum and more. Not many cities in Europe can boast such a rich, surviving Roman legacy. In Julius Caesar's reign, Cordoba was the capital of Hispania Ulterior Baetica. This was when the city first emerged as a centre of learning and arts, with Lucan, Seneca Elder and Younger all coming from here. Thus, Córdoba is also recorded in Roman written literature.
Byzantium followed Rome, then came the Visigoths. By 711, the Berber-Arabs came and made Córdoba a capital again. It became a very important Muslim centre, or Caliphate. The city thrived and grew, reaching a population of perhaps a million by the first century AD. Considering today there is just a third of this number, this was a stunning achievement. The literary and academic heritage of this inspiring city continued, with the largest library anywhere in the world in Córdoba, holding as much as a million texts. This was a rich, vibrant city, with opulent palaces, 3,000 places of worship and vast public baths, The Great Mosque was built around the turn of the millennium and it stands proud behind the Roman Bridge.
Nowhere in the city, and perhaps nowhere in Spain, is the juxtaposition of cultures, peoples and religions in history so clearly displayed. This World Heritage Site is known now as the Mezquita-Catedral, as the building on this site changed from a pagan place of worship to Christian, then Muslim, then Roman Catholic. The architecture is most certainly Moorish and incredibly impressive. Ironically, most of the materials used in its beautiful construction were robbed from the preceding Roman buildings, including a temple and the ampitheatre. The conquering civilizations do not always sit comfortably with each other, nor respect what has gone before it seems. There remains tension today, as Muslims continue to campaign to be able to worship in what is now a Catholic cathedral.
So Córdoba could be called a hotch potch. But that would not reflect it's amazing diversity and the heritage of its chequered past. It's population absolutely plummeted by the eighteenth century and its fortunes have fluctuated greatly through recorded history. Today, it is helped enormously by those coming to admire such a beautiful, eclectic town.
Major sites that simply cannot be missed, in addition to those named above, are all within easy walking distance. Though this is the second biggest 'old town' anywhere in Europe, it is quite simple to navigate, using the river and bridge as your landmark. On the southern end of the Roman bridge or Puente Romano stands the Calahorra Tower. This was built by the Arab Almohad dynasty to safeguard the bridge from invasion towards the end of the 1100s. Henry the Second of Castille admired it and expanded it further, adding an extra tower. Here was a ruler who saw the benefits of his predecessor's work and creations. The Roman bridge has luckily not been destroyed or dramatically altered, only renovated.
Headed across to the right bank of the Guadalquivir takes you into the main historic areas and modern delights of the city. One of the first stops should be the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos and its glorious gardens. You reach it by turning left as soon as you cross the bridge from the Calahorra, keeping to the river bank. This royal fortress dates from the eighth century AD and was used as a regal residence in medieval times. Isabella and Ferdinand granted an audience to a certain Christopher Columbus here, so that he could explain his plans to reach India via a western sea route. The treasure trove of artefacts, including many from the Roman era, must be seen to be believed. Just be aware when planning your visit: it's shut on Mondays, but is free every Wednesday.
Continuing your tour on foot, which really is the best and perhaps only way to truly appreciate Cordoba, head behind the Cathedral-Mosque to the Calleja de las Flores. This charming street is incredibly popular with visitors. Its cobbled street opens out onto a large square of plaza. Whitewashed houses are adorned year round with flowers, and many have been turned into cafés, craft and gift shops. This alley of flowers is not to be missed, though naturally its narrow winding ways become crowded in summer.
The Jewish quarter, or Juderia, contains some of the most entrancing and historically important sights. It has been compared most favourably with its counterpart in Seville, as it is less commercial and crowded. A labyrinth of streets and squares winds around towards the synagogue on Calle Maimónides. Yet the Moorish influence remains strong, with a souk - called the Zoco - a Talmudic school and Arab baths. The Synagogue survives from the thirteenth century. The whole area, dotted with plazas and statues, forms the heart of the old town and is a delight to walk through. At night, every vista changes. A nighttime guided tour comes highly recommended.
There is so much more to see. So many churches, museums, parks, bridges and wonderful squares. You could spend weeks exploring Córdoba and only scratch the surface: and many visitors do just that. When it comes to accommodation, there is a huge choice. More than huge - there are 5,000 beds in hotels, campsites, country houses and hostels here suiting every budget and taste! Obviously, the further in towards the old town you are, the more the costs go up. For the ultimate in luxury, try the new AC Córdoba Palacio, part of the Marriott chain, just a short stroll from the Grand Mosque. The views are staggering and the facilities ultra modern. Last minute offers can bring a stay at weekends in for just sixty euros per night.
For a more authentic style hotel tucked just behind the Mezquita-Catedral, with Moorish architecture and courtyards, try to sumptuous sixteenth-century Las Casas de la Juderia. Here, you are right in the heart of the Jewish Quarter and within steps of the Caliphate's baths, actually within the gardens of Campo Santo de la Martires. But ... it comes at a price, and that price starts at 230 Euros per night.
Don't despair if your budget doesn't stretch so far. The Senses and Colours Seneca Hostel is also in the Jewish Quarter, and yet has beds from around 15 Euros. It's quiet and rather lovely, with just eleven double rooms surrounding a flower-filled courtyard. So search around to find somewhere that suits your needs, whether that's a rented apartment, camping pitch or luxury boutique hotel.
Make no mistake, Cordoba is something extremely special, indeed unique. UNESCO recognise this and so do the millions of visitors who have flocked here through the years. It is perhaps to Spain what Florence or Venice are to Italy, or Avignon to France. For a historical, cultural vacation to leave you wanting more and needing to return, Cordoba will be very hard to beat. So leave the sunloungers and the Costas behind and head towards the hills. It's a journey you will never forget.
« Last Edit: June 03, 2014, 10:13:50 AM by MysteRy »
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